We are not makers of history. We are made by history.
Martin Luther King Jr
There are days when the polished sky scrapers, white washed residences and glossy malls all feel too polished, white and glossy. An escape to a bit of history is needed and there is plenty to be found in Old Dubai. Situated in the northern part of town, Bur Dubai and Deira, separated by Dubai Creek, are vibrant and diverse districts, full of historical and cultural interest.
Al Fahidi Historical District (Bastakiya Quarter) is a good place to start a tour of Old Dubai. It lies along the bank of Dubai Creek and offers a glimpse back at life in Dubai from the mid 19th century until the early 1970s. The beautifully preserved and restored gypsum and coral buildings were the residences of wealthy merchants, whose privacy was protected by the tall stone walls and lack of front windows. It is the last wind tower quarter left on the Arab side of the Gulf.
I easily whiled away a few hours strolling around the shady alleyways, stopping at the old buildings which have been converted into art galleries, museums, cafes and quirky little shops.
It is a short walk from Al Fahidi Historical District to the banks of Dubai Creek. This saltwater creek served a vital role in the history of Dubai, for fishing, pearling and as a gateway for traders. The Dubai Water Canal was completed in 2016, extending the Creek out into the Persian Gulf.
Abra station
I walked to the Bur Dubai abra station where it is possible to jump on a shared abra across Dubai Creek. There are over 100 of these traditional Arabian boats, constantly passing from one bank to the other. I loved the simplicity of the experience, sitting among tourists and tradesmen on the deck and handing over my 1 dirham coin to the abra driver in payment for the journey. There is little else to be bought for only 1 dirham in this city.
The spice souk is to be found on the opposite bank. As soon as I stepped ashore I felt like I had travelled to a different country. There was little of the modern Dubai to be found here, other than a passion for shopping. Atmospheric, bustling and lively, I had spices wafted under my nose and a pashmina wrapped around my shoulders by men keen to make a sale. Haggling is expected.
Further along is the more sanitised gold souk. I had to jostle with parties of tourists to get a look through the windows at gold bracelets, rings and chains. Many people travel to Dubai to buy gold so it was no surprise to see sales being made in most of the shops.
There were no purchases for me on this occasion, just an opportunity to watch, wander and experience a completely different side of this fascinating city.
DubaiSwan 